Guard

I decided to flip this over into the project forum  because I suspect it will be a long term endeavour. I will try to share some of the technical data in case someone else is considering this type of project.

First up are the products I use for my molds and the resin I used to cast the models. Both of these products were bought locally, and ended up on my shelf as gifts from someone who did not want to use them. Im not sure of the cost, but the silicone mould compound is a popular smooth on brand, and was really nice to work with.



The resin is a Michales special. It is not at all ideal, and if i were to buy something I would go to an alternative. It dries very glossy, and I'm worried about paint adhesion over the long term. My finished product also had allot of air bubbles, but this is mostly because i did not use a vacuum chamber.



I thought that maybe an off the shelf product from Michaels might be less toxic, but that is not really the case. These resins are pretty bad news. The MSDS sheets i have read all warn that continued exposure may lead to the development of allergies, in addition to the common warnings about toxicity. In the past i would have brushed this off, but after years of soaking up super glue I have actually developed an allergy to it. One good whiff and I will have flu like symptoms for 2 days. The moral of the story - lots of ventilation, a good respirator, and some sort of gloves.

I began by scratch building a track section and the main body of the tanks. These were done out of plasticard that came from hobby express. The track links are a specific piece of changes that came in a bag. Between each link is a piece of styrene rod. I did one track section, and after the mold was done, i had to alter the track section when I made the opposite side, so that the exterior detailing matched.

Below are the molds. One think I discovered is that making the molds too small causes flexing during the casting process when the resin in poured in. This is something i discovered too late, and so many of my section are bent or slightly off true. The mould for the body section is larger and so flexes less, but the walls on the track molds are far too thin.





Lastly, I thought that i could get away with using vibration to help settle the resin rather than going to a vacuum chamber. This was a big mistake. Vibration did not help release the gasses, it seemed to compound the problem, and i threw out a complete set of tracks and body because they bubbles were so bad.

The finished models still have many small bubbles. Below are the models in a nearly complete state. The green parts are areas where i used the GW liquid green stuff as a sort of liquid filler. I globbed it on, used a small flat tool to spread it, and then sanded the areas after.





Lastly, I used the greenstuff casting method from white dwarf  to make copies of some vehicle lights, and put them on the front. They should be more visible in future photos.

The models as they currently sit on my painting table. They are primed and ready to roll. As long as you don't look too close they appear mostly symmetrical. At least i hope they do based on the time i have invested.

Awesome breakdown dude!

I always wanted to get into casting parts, never got around to it. I've used the pressmold heat epoxy stuff to make greenstuff casts before, but im mostly just too lazy :p

Cant wait to see these mini-tanks in your colour scheme!

There is no doubt that Its messy, and allot of work. I think that unless you have a ton of free time, or want to learn this stuff out of personal interest, your better off just buying your models from the local hobby shop. Right now i have more time than money, and I always wanted to try my hand at it.

Outside of 40k there are some pretty awesome potential applications for the skill set. This is sort of the pinnacle in my mind:
http://ericfreitas.deviantart.com/

A concept i came up with, and might use for heraldry. Its not particularly of military theme, but if i fill in the background with checks it might fit the army better. Just not sure its grim dark enough.

Could see that as Slanesh or Dark eldar herldry

Maybe ill meet you in the middle and save it for a harlequin army.

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I really did my best to get a decent photo. I have a good camera, used a tripod, built a light box, but still not great results. Its probably for the better though, as my painting falls short of display quality.

The idea with these was to create an alternative to heavy weapon teams that would utilize left over bits from standard GW kits. In this i think it was a decent success. I would not attempt this again without proper resin, larger molds, and a good vacuum chamber. I can honestly say that retailers have little to fear from anyone who thinks they can do it themselves at home.





I was going to put them all on 50mm bases, but now I'm not sure.

Don't be so hard on yourself. Those look amazing all done up! They totally fit with a mechanized Imperial Guard theme.

They look fantastic!

Your color choices, as always, are spot on.

I think theyd look super good ok 60mm bases!

Thanks gentlemen, I appreciate it.

I decided to follow through on the base option. These are 60mm bases from a non GW company, and are a little flatter than the GW style. I dug up some little roots, used hot glue, cork, and sand from between the paving blocks in the backyard. A little green stuff, and tea leaves for ground litter. The idea is to make a muddy kind of spring theme for the army, cause spring is awesome. I have debated adding a little green foliage, or maybe a few dots of snow, as if things are in the middle of a thaw.

Im ok with the bases, the problem happens when i put the mini tanks onto the bases. They are a little too big for the 60mm, and I don't really like how it looks. Here i really need some input. Can I legally run them without the bases? They are meant to replace two man heavy weapon teams that usually fit on 60mm bases. The size is not really different, the models are just rectangular rather than circular.  Can i legally put them on bigger bases in the current iteration of the rules? Maybe I'm being too picky, but i really don't like them on the undersized 60mm.

Just bases



Sizing demo

Gw has oval 70mm i do believe, they might work better for you.

Tho honestly the 60mm doesnt look bad.

Ok, thanks. They look slightly better in the photos, maybe because of angle. I just remember somewhere along line playing a person who had put large models on small bases, and how bad it looked. Is there a gameplay issue around not having bases, or is it a visual thing?

Well technically for game-play all models except vehicles have to have bases. Around here you'd be good without bases.

Yeah dont worry about not having bases. If its the same size as the base i wouldnt worry.

So friendly play its all good, but RaW they should have a base. At some point in time i will probably sell or trade this stuff, or maybe even play in a tournament. I will have to check the den for those big bases.

This is the most recent batch of guardsmen. I found that I had extra torsos, and a shortage of legs, so i decided to get thrifty and make some interchangeable bodies. They turned out fairly well, and give me the option to use regular lasgun troops, a couple special weapons, or two veteran sergeant types.

Legs and bodies


And some of the possible options

This batch was done with optional arm swaps. I think i prefer the whole torso swap idea.

Those look awesome. I wish I had take the time when assembling many a model to make the weapons/options swappable.

That paint aint half bad!

Its true, magnets are kind of pain to work with. But over the long run I think they will pay off, especially given the rapid changes GW keeps making to army options.

Thanks Scott, I'm sort of hoping for a tabletop + level.

The first two russ tanks to be finished. They both have interchangeable main weapons and sponsoons. The punisher can be equipped with a demolisher, punisher, or executioner plasma cannon. The Second tank can use the converted nova cannon, or the vanquisher main battle cannon options. All sponsors can be swapped.

I would have liked to put more bags, ammo cases, etc on the tanks to give them a more dynamic look, but I'm really short on accessory bits.

The command tank



Russ #2

Love that chequered pattern, and as always, that soft olive green is perfect