C'Tan C'Tastrophy

Earlier this week while I was waiting to get stomped by a Deathwing list, I had noticed that I had forgotten my C'Tan proxy at home. Wanting to be a good sport, I bought an actual C'Tan model on the spot, and then used a piece of scenery to proxy in for the course of the match. Now, however, I have got and primed it and the models I bought after the tournament only to discover a nasty fact: Citadel Finecast strikes again, it's a miscast, and not a small one.

The torso is modeled separately from the "doom skirt", and the pelvis region is supposed to cup and hold the torso much the same way it does in our biology. However, in this instance the two pieces don't line up right, and to make it look proper on the front the Nightbringer suddenly finds himself with a bad case of plumber's crack.

So far I have obtained four Citadel Finecast models, and two of them have been miscast. While I know a sample size of four isn't exactly large, the fact that thus far I've had a 50% defect rate with this line of models is somewhat disheartening. Additionally, since the C'Tan comes in a box and not a blister, there is no way to tell before buying if there is something wrong, and even then the nature of this defect was un-noticeable until assembly.

While I'll be sure to say hello to the fine folks down at Games Workshop tomorrow, I do have a general question for fixing my problem in the mean time: Liquid Green Stuff, what is its general methodology of usage, and how much does it have for a bonding quality? Will I be able to use the LGS to adhere the model together at the hips on its own, or will I be modelling it and then applying glue to either side once it sets?

I have to say, though, the miscast on this model is a shame. I have it primed with a coat of Skull White spray, and it looks beautifully statuesque.

Liquid green stuff has no bonding quality at all.

Finecast has really done me no favours at all either but I remember when I put togetehr a metal nightbringer way back when it was a poor kit to assemble fit wise.

I have so far bought *NO* finecast models, and I'm very leary.

you may have a 50% defect rate, but when everyone has close to a 50% defect rate, we have a problem. It is telling that GW has instructed their stores to OPEN boxes and clamshells @ the time of sale to inspect for defects. Some ppl have bought a lot of them and had a decent amount of good models (Paz had bought some for his Dark Eldar and IIRC said they were basically fine.) Size and complexity of the model seems to have an impact on quality.

You will likely have to pin the model, then Green Stuff it. I'm not sure who has experience with it on the board.

Everyone I have talked to thus far has recommended pinning. So, some pilot holes, paper clip shards, and a touch of super glue it is, then!

The rep I talked to said that they would be sending out "replacement parts" and that "there might be a few extra, and hold off on building the model until they show up, we want you building with only the best parts".

Last time I talked to a rep they just said they were sending out a new one. Well, a week and a bit shouldn't be that long to wait to find out. The only thing I can think of is that given the size of the model they're going to open it up first and see if everything fits before shipping.

If its any consolation.. all my finecast models have been awesome

but ive also only bought blisyers and no boxes

I just pray that spyders and wraiths are plastic or metal.

I've had one bad Imotek, a bad, but useable Cryptek, and a Lord with a bent scythe that I didn't really notice until after I painted it.

My problem with Finecast is the amount of work it takes to trim the model and strip the bonding agent. My Necron paint scheme is really quick to do, and I'm not kidding when I say it takes longer to clean the finecast model than it does to paint it.

I'm not sure if I'm just a slow painter or if this color scheme is simply more difficult, but this batch of warriors is taking me forever to do.

Planes wrote:I'm not sure if I'm just a slow painter or if this color scheme is simply more difficult, but this batch of warriors is taking me forever to do.

You're new, that's normal. Once you get the hang of it, your speed will improve.

Lore Weaver wrote:I've had one bad Imotek, a bad, but useable Cryptek, and a Lord with a bent scythe that I didn't really notice until after I painted it.

My problem with Finecast is the amount of work it takes to trim the model and strip the bonding agent. My Necron paint scheme is really quick to do, and I'm not kidding when I say it takes longer to clean the finecast model than it does to paint it.

Toothbrush and lukewarm running soapy water and you're good. Also Mark, use a real primer!

I used to use smelly primer.

I've been using Chaos Black for quite some time now though, haven't had any problems, until Finecast :-P

What do you guys use?

Spray primer -- forever and always.

I've used P3 Black and Citadel Bone White thus far, and both have done SO much better than brushing on Chaos Black for me.

I use Army Painter for prime/basecoat. CHEATCODE for painting!

I use Tamiya fine and super fine grey primer now. I think it might be banned in Canada for a little while until they alter the chemicals in the formula.

edit- for game stuff I use cheap-o and really rugged krylon grey indoor/outdoor primer. It doesn't choke the details and it's very durable. I super reccomend it.

Well, the replacement C'Tan finally showed up today, by courier of all things. Upon trying to clean up the sprue prior to cleaning/priming, the tip of the scythe promptly broke off. I was going to buy green stuff tomorrow anyway, I guess I can beef up the scythe while I am at it. Still thoroughly unimpressed with Citadel Finecast. Probably going to avoid it from now on unless a major "must have" model pops up, in which case I probably wouldn't mind a double.

The GW resin glues really well, just glue it back on. You might have to shave it a bit.

Also, buy a sharper knife and these things won't happen.

On the topic of sharp knives, it wasn't the knife that did it, my thumb merely brushed the tip of the blade, and the blade decided to peace out.

The white C'Tan has now been assembled and green-stuff'd. I also made an interesting observation when putting it together: the "legs" can be received by the Scarab wave in one of two ways, either with the C'Tan riding the wave forward (as shown on the box), or with the C'Tan shitting them out behind him in his wake. The later makes the model extremely front heavy, I have found. I might try that on the Black C'Tan, as I will be modifying his blade, I could potentially use that has a counter balance.